In this week’s Insider’s Guide, Yorkie 065 turns his attention to the black arts―setups―in the first of his planned guides that will explain how to tune your car for both speed, and personal preferences. This week’s episode delves into how to create baseline setups using the default setups that come with Project CARS 2―setups that can be quickly and simply altered to make you quicker and which can then be easily loaded for the majority of tracks and cars in-game.

Creating a Baseline Setup

A baseline setup, when all is said and done, is your “go to” setup that will feature a number of common changes to the default setups in-game, and which will be applicable to a broad range of tracks. Naturally each track will require you to tinker a bit with your baseline, but the idea here is to create one setup that you can load for practically every track.

With this in mind, your baseline won’t necessarily just be one setup; you’ll need to create a few that you can load up to reflect low versus high fuel loads (for qualifying and race), as well as possibly setups that reflect the weather conditions―a wet weather setup, for instance, won’t be the same as your dry weather setup.

Many of the changes that you’ll be making to the default setups can be applied to the majority of cars in-game, too, and in this episode, Yorkie 065 will touch on some crucial changes that will immediately create cars that are both quicker and more stable.

Rear Brake Ducts

Lowering these slightly will result in less cooling (which will necessitate that you alter the brake balance to a more forward bias), but also better maintenance of brake temperature. Brake temperatures matter because keeping them close to their optimum operating temps will give you better brake performance―especially at the end of a long straight.

Lowering the ducts will also offer less drag for better straight-line performance.

Engine Brake Value

Here you want to increase the Engine Brake value. The Engine Brake value reflects how hard the engine will pull in order to help you slow down for a corner. Increasing this value will see the effect of engine braking weaken, which means you won’t bleed off speed as quickly, but this will also give you better stability under heavy braking and downshifting, and help maintain speeds through faster flowing corners when you lift off the throttle.

Bump Stops―less is more

Altering the bump stops is a quick way of gaining time on practically all race cars on the majority of tracks. This, however and importantly, doesn’t include rallycross or road cars. Taking out or severely reducing the bump stops results in a ride that allows for far more suspension travel, thereby making the ride a lot more pliant and responsive. The car will feel more “planted” as a result, and feel a lot more sharp both front and rear, and will also reduce that soft and “wallowy” feel when the bump stops are engaged.

If the car is bottoming out as a result of you reducing the bump stops, consider either adding them back in (sparingly), or increasing the ride height.

As you’ll see in this week’s Insider’s Guide, you don’t need to make too many changes to create quick baseline setups, as the defaults in-game are already a great starting point. Some changes can be personal preference―your brake bias, for example―and some will be beneficial for lap times, while others will give better stability. Ultimately, every car will require a unique change to get it handling the way you want it to handle, but some things are more general across a car class or bunch of classes.

Your baseline setup, then, is about making you faster by creating a stable setup that will give you confidence. Once you have created these baselines, you can then get out on track and refine them to work on each specific track in-game.

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