The HUD in Project CARS 2 has all the information you need to help you test and refine changes to your cars setup, along with monitoring temperatures, pressures and suspension behaviour, be that in-race, qualifying or practice. Before looking at what’s on the menu, you’ll need to set up how you access your HUD.

In Options > Controls > Edit Assignments > Game > you’ll find a Cycle HUD View option. Assign a button to that, and use that button to then cycle through the HUD views.

  • Tyre Info: Here you will see the name of the tyres (compound), the tyre pressures, the temperatures across the width of the tyre, and the amount of tyre tread remaining

Optimal tyre pressures vary from different tyre types. To delve further into this vital area, you can read Casey Ringley’s write-up for the optimal pressures for each different car class.

These are the pressures you’ll be aiming to see on your Tyre Info screen once the tyres have been run and are into so-called “hot pressure” phase―that is, about 5-6 laps into a stint on an average length track.

The temperature spread across the width of the tyre helps to determine whether you have the right pressures, and also whether your camber setup is in the ballpark of ideal. Generally, aim for 5-10°C spread from the inside third (the third closest to the centre of the car) to the outer third, with the inner third being between the temperatures either side of it.

If the inner third is hotter once pressures have stabilized, it means your pressures are too high and the tyre is ballooning like a Motorbike tyre. If it is cooler, your pressures are too low and the tyre is buckling.

The tyre tread is represented by the amount of colour that indicates temperature (blue = cold, green = good temp, orange/red = overheating) in the icon. Once all the colour has been depleted, you will have worn through all the tyre tread and be down to the tyre carcass, which severely hinders lap time and tyre grip. Change tyres before reaching this stage.

  • Brake Temperatures: Indicated with the brake icon and temperature value, this shows the surface temperature of the brakes. Use these to tune Brake Duct Openings

For GT3 cars that use Steel Brakes, optimal temperature ranges should be between 300-650/700°C. They shouldn’t drop below 300 on the longest straight, and they shouldn’t peak above 650/700 in the heaviest braking zones. Carbon ceramic brakes operate at much higher temperatures, and standard road car brakes will operate at lower temps.

  • Suspension Info: Here you will see the size of the Bump Stops (indicated by BUMP value), the amount of suspension travel remaining before hitting the Bump Stops (indicated by TRAVEL value), and the car’s ride height from the ground (indicated by HEIGHT)

Both TRAVEL and HEIGHT are live values that fluctuate as you drive around the circuit over bumps, curbs, and when you put load on the car through corners. If the TRAVEL ever flashes red, along with the bar next to it which represents travel (visually), then you’re engaging the Bump Stops or reaching the limits of suspension travel.

Using TRAVEL can help to tune Suspension Stiffness and Damper settings with stiffer suspension = less fluctuation in TRAVEL, softer suspension = more fluctuation in TRAVEL and higher chance of engaging Bump Stops.

HEIGHT allows you to tune the Ride Height of the car. Actual preferable Ride Height is dependent on the car, with some preferring more rake (rear higher than the front), while other cars will benefit from a more flat, level rake.

Having a higher nose in comparison to the rear usually results in better straight line speed. Your speed, the downforce acting upon the car (influenced by Wing Angles), and Suspension Stiffness will all have an impact on the Ride Height of the car. Make sure you are making note of the HEIGHT values when the car is in motion, rather than at a standstill, as although you may have more rake when static, the car could become flat with airflow moving over the rear of the car and the downforce pushing it down towards the track surface.

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